The Yard
| DATE: Dec 10, 2007 |
| The next layout will be a larger On30 yard layout that is portable for taking to shows. I worked with some cardstock and found I could easily build a layout that rolled through normal doors, supplied its own support (table), and could house a 4 by 8 sheet of ply/foam. Best it will allow 24+ inches from "foam level" for scenery and buildings. I also decided it will be a "timesaver" layout with extended sidings that can be switched, or filled with "filler stock" if we wish to play the puzzle. It will be fully sceniced. I will use the vast stock of Atlas code 100 I have by cutting of every other tie. So on to the gathering stage. Here's how it works. Layout folding movie. |
| DATE: Dec. 16, 2008 | Saturday while I was in town I dropped by Harbor Freight to buy a small moving dolly that has nice rubber casters and a good price of $10. The $10 price was well under the cost of 4 casters at the local hardware store. While there I looked around a bit and found they had the needed casters on sale for only $2 each. So I purchased them instead at a cost of $8. Best they were made in India. With the casters in hand I could measure them and finalize the cart design. Note that on “table” hinge side the hinge needs to hold the table up 1/2 inch. This will allow the table to be raised more than 90 degrees making closing of the front door easier. The front door supplies support for the table. Also note the back is left open. When opened it will provide storage and when the table in in the closed position the table bottom will “seal” the side. It also results in a weight savings. I allowed for corner braces to hold the cabinet square and rigid. |
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| DATE: Dec. 31,2007 |
| The build has began. The ends were cut 24 inches rather than 28, but that is no problem and I used them anyway. I purchased 3- 1X4s, and all were a different length, so all were cut to 96 inches and mounted with metal brackets and screws. Then the casters are bolted on and the unit is turned right side up. The unit is rather delicate and flimsy a this point, but the doors and table will supply much of the rigidity. |
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| DATE: Jan 3, 2008 |
| Well, today I opened up the wallet, blew the dust and cobwebs off the money, and bought a piece of 1/4 plywood and a sheet of 1 1/2 pink foam. I then did a quick sweep of the floor and glued them together with Lowes house brand yellow glue. I then weighted them down with whatever was handy and went home. The plywood 11 dollars and the foam was 18. The glue was a buck fifty. |
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| DATE: Jan 7, 2008 |
| Today the top was dry and I decided to mount it. I started by reversing the hinges so they would fold the way I wanted. You pull the pin, turn 1 end over, and put the pin back in. I also had to trim 1/4 inch from the 8 foot length of the plywood because it was 1/4 inch too long and I didn't measure it before I glued it up. Sad Nothing seems to the right size from the lumber yard. |
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| DATE:Jan 7, 2008 cont. |
| So after cutting it down, which was a big pain, I mounted it to the hinges using metal drywall anchors and screws. They worked perfect after I drilled a 1/4 inch hole to start them into. |
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| DATE:Jan 7, 2008 cont. |
| After mounting the top I found the glue joint was too weak as the foam stayed rigid but the plywood started peeling loose from it. So I went to the lumber yard and purchased some furring strips (1X2) and cut a strip of foam out all the way around and glued and screwed in a perimeter frame. BG now it's stable. |
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| DATE: Jan 9, 2008 |
| I worked on the frame some more today and got it to the point I can start on the track if I feel like it. The first picture is of it closed in the transport position. The top of the box will be the backdrop, but since it's a 4X8 layout the backdrop will be left off to facilitate working on the scenery and track from both sides. That may require some planning so that the backdrop will fit when the time comes. Also notice I can build 20 inches above the foam which means BIG TREES. The second picture shows the uncompleted front door in the open position which allow the top (table) of the layout to hinge up. Then the door closes and the table is lowered onto the door which supports it in the front. I can actually do it easily without letting the door hit the floor, just open it about 1/2 way with one hand and move the top up or down with the other. I think adding a pull rope will make this even easier so that I don't have to bend so much to grab the front of the table. I'm going to also add some type of latches on the front door to secure it. The unit is still very light, I estimate around 40 pounds. Later I will replace the wood on the front with 1 piece of nicer looking paneling. I am also giving thought to cutting down the sides and adding a curved backdrop, but I need to do something else for a while. Building benchwork is too much like work. |
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| DATE: Jan 27, 2008 |
| Ok, since I have several miniscenes I want to put on this layout that are already on foam, I decided to assemble tis layout like a jig saw puzzle. So I cut and soldered up a couple turnouts and am gonna stary. I cut and sanded some ditches in the foam and stuck the track down with a little latex caulk. I plan on semi finishing each puzzle piece as i go so a quick blend at the seams will be all i need. It will also make it easier to install the hidden switch machines for the layout. |
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| DATE: Feb 11, 2008 |
| Anybody who thought this was going to be a linear build are now in for a suprise. I haven't had time of late to go over to the boys garage and work on the layout in the cold. I seen yard towers like this in the real world on old narrow gauge layouts and decided to freelance on from cardboard and paper and Grandt windows. I also wanted a witchs hat roof, so here it is. |
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